|
Ibn Battuta traveled all over the Arabian
Peninsula, in Egypt, Iran, Mesopotamia, Russia,
China, India and Africa. One of the most
important of his destinations was to Central
Asia. A literary transcript of his reminiscences
made by historian Ibn Juzaya - A Gift to
Those Dreaming of the Miracles of Cities and
Wonders of Travels - is unsurpassed in the
history of the world descriptive geographic
literature of the Middle Ages. The manuscript
presents a realistic picture of political,
public and cultural life in the region in the
first half of the 14th century. An important
factor is that he traveled in Central Asia soon
after the devastating Mongolian invasion.
|
Traveling
around the region, Ibn Battuta enjoyed
the hospitality of the Order of Ahi and
stayed in zaviya (Sufi tenements) where
itinerants, especially pilgrims, were
warmly welcomed. In the autumn of 1333
Ibn Battuta arrived in Khorezm. By that
time Khorezm had recovered from the
devastation left by the Genghis Khan
hordes. 'It is the greatest, most
beautiful and largest of the Turkic
cities with wonderful bazaars, broad
streets, numerous edifices and
impressive views. Life is thriving in
the city thanks to a large number of
residents, and it looks like a billowing
sea,' he wrote about its capital
Urgench, which he also called Khorezm.
He mentioned a clinic where a Syrian
doctor worked, and wrote in detail about
a zaviya not far from Khorezm, near the
tomb of Sheikh Najm ad-Din al-Kubra. In
the house of Kadi Abu Hafs Umar he was
amazed by the beautiful carpets the
central hall was decorated with, and the
cloth-upholstered walls with numerous
recesses where gilded sliver vessels and
Iranian jugs stood. |
|
Ibn Battuta
|
Ibn Battuta also visited the Emir whose house,
along with the sumptuous feast, he described in
detail. He also emphasized the piety of his new
acquaintances and the extravagant gifts they
lavished on him: a large sum of money, a sable
overcoat and a beautiful stallion. But what he
especially admired were Khorezmian melons, '…
there are no melons like Khorezmian melons, may
be with the exception of Bukharian ones, and the
third best are Isfahan melons. Their peels are
green, and the flesh is red, very sweat and
hard. Surprisingly, they cut melons into slices,
dry them in the sun, put them into baskets as it
is done with Malaga figs, and take them from
Khorezm to the remote cities in India and China
to sell. They are the best of all dried fruit.'
Then he made his way to Bukhara. Medieval
Bukhara was one of the most famous cities in the
Islamic world, and many Arab geographers
described its splendor. However, Ibn Battuta saw
Bukhara in a sorry state. 'This city had once
been the capital of the cities lying across the
Jaihun River, but the cursed Tatar Tinghiz (Genghiz
Khan)… destroyed it so that all of its mosques,
madrassahs and market-places lay in ruins, with
a few exceptions. Its residents are humiliated,
and their testimony is accepted neither in
Khorezm nor in any other country…'
|
|
Ibn Battuta
stayed in Fathabad, a suburb of Bukhara,
where there was a large zaviya and a
mausoleum, which struck him by its
dimensions, near the tomb of a sacred
hermit Saif at-Din al-Baharzi. The
Sheikh of the zaviya invited Ibn Battuta
to his place, as well as all notables of
the city, and '…reciters read the
holy Koran in their pleasant voices,
while the preacher made a sermon. They
sang wonderful songs in Turkic and
Persian. That was the most wonderful
night of all nights.' There is
nothing like these lively details
retained in the memory of an inquisitive
and well-wishing person! And there are a
lot of such excerpts in the manuscript,
that is why the book is considered a
masterpiece of rihla - geographic
description of a country a traveller saw
with his own eyes. Biographies of
historical personalities often contain
data that cannot be found in other
sources. |
The next city Ibn Battuta visited was Samarkand.
'It is one of the largest and most beautiful
cities,' Ibn Battuta writes, and remarks
with bitterness that 'most of Samarkand was
turned into a shambles.' The traveler could
not but admire the beautiful mausoleums of the
Shah-in-Zinda ensemble. He made special mention
of a Muslim sanctity - the tomb of Sheikh Kusan
ibn-Abbas of whom a legend says that he is
Prophet Mukhammad's cousin. 'Over the grave
is erected a dome on four supports, each of them
flanked with twin marble columns of green,
black, white and red colours. The walls of the
mausoleum are decorated with multicoloured
gilded inlay; its roof is covered with lead; the
tomb is made of inlaid ebony, with
silver-studded corners, and three silver lamps
are hung inside. The floor of the mausoleum is
covered with wool and cotton carpets…'
From Samarkand the Moroccan traveler set his
feet to Termez, which was a large city for that
time, with beautiful buildings and market-places
and an abundance of orchards and vineyards. Ibn
Battuta pointed out some curious details of
local everyday life. 'In the baths city dwellers
wash their heads with sour milk,' he recalls.
'Each bathhouse attendant has a lot of jugs
filled with sour milk. Everyone who comes to the
baths pours some milk into a small bowl and
washes his head. This milk freshens the hair and
makes it soft…'
Of great importance for historians are Ibn
Battuta's data on the movement of sarbedars,
which started in Khorasan in the 1330s as an
expression of social and political protest of
representatives of the middle class against the
policy of Mongolian invaders. In 1365 the
sarbedars headed an uprising in Samarkand and
won. Their independent state existed in Khorasan
from 1337 through 1381. They had their own army,
minted their own coins, and abolished some taxes
imposed by the Mongols. Meanwhile, there is
practically no evidence of eyewitnesses about
this movement in written sources.
After Central Asia Ibn Battuta traveled in Iran
and Afghanistan, China and Africa. He spent
about eight years in India.
Scholars believe than the Moroccan traveler died
in 1377. It is very likely that he is buried
near Tаnjer where he was born. Anyway, it is
there that tourists are shown his grave.
Contemporaries were rather critical about Ibn
Battuta's writings. Many considered his evidence
dubious while others thought it was all fantasy
and fiction. Soon they were all forgotten. And
it was only in the 19th century that readers
could re-discover his 'Travels'.
The purpose of Ibn Battuta's entire life was to
'see the world and please the heart'. He
belonged to the same cohort of pathfinders as
the Italian traveler Marco Polo and the Russian
traveler Afanasy Nikitin. Such people make the
world larger, brighter and multi-dimensional. |