THE TROUT AT TADPOLE BRIDGE

Buckland Marsh, Oxfordshire It feels somehow wrong to arrive at the Trout by car – especially once you’ve installed yourself at a teak table beside the infant Thames, with narrow boats sliding by and punts slaloming into the pub’s private moorings.

Cast adrift in Wind in the Willows country, the inn has been given a makeover by new landlords Gareth and Helen Pugh, with lots of scrubbed slate and fresh flowers indoors, and rather posh nosh such as foie gras wrapped in prosciutto. But it’s not pretentious: proper locals pop in for a pint, and there are sometimes junior Pughs playing footie in the garden – where the apple trees come in handy for stocking the dessert menu.

If you fancy a float, the Trout can arrange a crewed gondola – with champagne picnic, naturally. Nice rooms also.